”Nishijin ori” is one of the most famous dyeing and weaving techniques in Japan, and is actually classified into 12 categories.
Therefore, this article provides an overview of ”Nishijin ori”, 12 varieties, and furthermore, recommended items.
What is ”Nishijin ori”?
”Nishijin ori” is the generic name for yarn-dyed patterned fabrics produced in Nishijin, Kyoto. As described below, it can be subdivided into 12 varieties, each of which is characterized by being produced in small quantities.
Because of the various processes involved in weaving various patterns using yarn that has been dyed first, it cannot be completed by just one craftsman, and must be divided up into separate jobs, which means that each piece is carefully produced one by one with a lot of time and effort.
Varieties of ”Nishijin ori”
There are as many as 12 varieties of “Nishijin ori” with a variety of expressions.
- Tuzure
- Tate-nishiki (vertical brocade)
- Nuni-nishiki (weft brocade)
- Donsu
- Shuchin
- Shoha
- Futuu
- Mojiri-ori
- Hon-Shibori weaving
- Velvet
- Kasuri-ori
- Tsumugi (pongee)
- 綴（つづれ）
- 経錦（たてにしき）
- 緯錦（ぬきにしき）
- 緞子（どんす）
- 朱珍（しゅちん）
- 紹巴（しょうは）
- 風通（ふうつう）
- 綟り織（もじりおり）
- 本しぼ織り
- ビロード
- 絣織（かすりおり）
- 紬（つむぎ）
1.綴（Tuzure）
Tsuzure is a technique based on the common plain weave, and has the characteristic of weaving a pattern using only the weft yarns. The weft yarns, which are three to five times denser than the warp yarns, are woven as if they were wrapped around the warp yarns, so the warp yarns are not visible from the surface.
Weaving requires a special technique in which the weaver’s fingernails are jagged like saws and used like a tool, and is so delicate that it is said that even skilled weavers can weave only a few centimeters per day.
2.経錦（Tate-nishiki）
Tate-nishiki is woven using two or more colored yarns and gold or silver foil. The warp threads are used to create the ground and small patterns. The more colors used in a pattern, the more complex and delicate the work becomes, requiring a high level of skill.
3.緯錦（Nuni-nishiki）
In nuni-nishiki, the weft threads are used to weave the ground and pattern. The warp threads are counted as one set when several colors are combined, and the weft is composed of three weft threads, the mother weft and the negative weft.
4.緞子（Donsu）
Donsu is based on satin weave, one of the three primary textile weaves. Using not only thread but also gold and silver foil, five warp and five weft threads are used to weave a pattern into the back structure of the satin weave. This makes the ground thicker and has a strong luster characteristic, and the three-dimensional pattern and luster give the impression of shading.
5.朱珍（Shuchin）
Shuchin is also based on a satin structure. It has no raised crests, and the colorful patterns and glittering gold and silver foils combined with the glossy ground are luxurious and gorgeous.
6.紹巴（Shoha）
Shoha weaves out oblique lines in the shape of a mountain. It is characterized by the use of strongly twisted threads and is woven in one of several varieties of weave, including twill weave, shuji weave, and plain weave. Because of its fine ground patterns and lack of thickness, it is said that it was previously often used as the lining of haori.
7.風通（Futuu）
Futuu has a multi-layered structure with a double or triple cross section. Each layer has a different weaving technique, and the pattern expressed in each layer is alternated on the surface.
In this case, the front and back surfaces have opposite patterns, and it is widely known to be used for kimonos, sackcloths, obis, and other items.
8.綟り織（Mojiri-ori）
Mojiri-ori is a hemp yarn weaving technique in which two warp yarns are twisted while the weft yarns are driven in, intentionally creating a gap between the warp and weft yarns. Although it is a fabric, it is sometimes said to be like knitting.
9.本しぼ織り(HonShibo-ori)
Hon-shibo-ori is made of knead-dyed silk yarns and finished with either plain weave or 20-weave weave. The threads are pre-twisted and then hand-rubbed with vegetable glue such as rice glue, etc. After weaving, the threads are soaked in warm water and rubbed hard to create the shibori effect.
10.ビロード(velvet)
A velvet that expresses a pattern by weaving wires horizontally and then cutting the warp threads where the wires pass to raise the fabric or pull it out to create loops, and then trimming the upper part to create a pattern. Due to its characteristics, it is sometimes called Wanaori or Kinkazan.
11.絣織（Kasuri-ori）
Kasuri ori uses kasuri threads that have been partially resist-dyed, and then rearranges and shifts them to create patterns in either plain weave or satin weave. The use of thin silk threads dyed in a variety of colors creates a delicate and intricate pattern.
12.紬（Tsumugi）
Tsumugi uses raw silk or floss pongee as the warp and dupion or floss pongee as the weft. Although it has a rough texture, it is durable and rustic, and has a history of being distributed to the general public.
Recommended items made with Nishijin ori
Now that we have covered the outline of Nishijin ori, we will introduce a lot of recommended items from here.
Highest grade “Hassun obi”
This is a top quality eight-sided obi finished in Nishijin silk tsuzuri, which is becoming rarer and rarer every year. It is made by “Ishikawa Tsuzure,” a weaving company that has made a name for itself as a prestigious Tsuzure obi weaver. The quality of this obi has been approved by the Imperial Household because it has been presented to the Imperial Household.
Because of the hand-scraping technique, it takes a very long time to produce. Please enjoy the water chestnut flower pattern expressed by ultra-fine threads.
| 商品名 | 【爪掻き本綴れ】 【石川つづれ】 西陣手織り最高級八寸帯 「菱彩華紋」 ≪紫証紙付き！希少な国産本綴れ！≫ ※皇室献上織元の逸品！ |
| 価格（税込） | 1,397,000円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.kimonoichiba.com/products/detail.php?k_pid=1105911 |
| 店舗名 | 京都きもの市場 |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.kimonoichiba.com |
Basic and easy to use tie
Necktie based on the traditional pattern, called the five crumpled pattern. Because it is also decorated with dots, it is not too Japanese taste, you can also be used in casual and daily life. It is also elegant, and the small sword is woven with a motif of cranes and turtles with a wish for longevity is also a great point.
| 商品名 | 西陣織ネクタイ 鶴は千年、亀は万年 ブルー |
| 価格（税込） | 7,500円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://nishijin-online.org/products/西陣織ネクタイ-鶴は千年-亀は万年-ブルー |
| 店舗名 | 西陣 織元コレクション 西陣織会館ONLINE |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://nishijin-online.org |
Masks that add a touch of elegance to your mouth.
This luxurious mask is made of Nishijin brocade. The subdued colors are not obnoxious and will naturally color your mouth. It is decorated with a face pattern that gives a sense of art, and has a unique design that mixes Japanese and Western styles, which at first glance you wouldn’t know is Nishijin brocade. It is also ideal as a gift.
| 商品名 | Art Face – 西陣織マスク |
| 価格（税込） | 2,700円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://nishijin-mask.com/products/art-face |
| 店舗名 | Nishijin mask KYOTO |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://nishijin-mask.com |
Mask case that doubles as a pocket chief
This mask case is recommended for those who want to be particular about the case they keep their masks in. It is easy to use in a fresh light blue color and can also be used as a pocket chief. It is also treated with a biocide finish, and it is no exaggeration to say that this is an item that is essential in this day and age.
| 商品名 | 西陣織 チーフマスクケース サックス |
| 価格（税込） | 1,980円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://nishijin-online.org/products/西陣織-チーフマスクケース-サックス |
| 店舗名 | Nishijin mask KYOTO |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://nishijin-mask.com |
Recommended belts for fashion accents
This belt is made of Nishijin brocade and has a great impact. Just by incorporating it into your fashion, you will surely create a powerful and cool style. Recommended for those who want to express a modern fashion that fuses Japanese and Western styles.
| 商品名 | 西陣織ベルト |
| 価格（税込） | 6,000円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.tobikuroda.com/product/317 |
| 店舗名 | TOBI KURODA |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.tobikuroda.com// |
Popular first shoes for baby gifts
First shoes are sure to be a gift that will be appreciated as a baby gift. What better first pair of shoes to wear for the traditional “first wearing” ceremony that has been held on the first birthday since the Edo period?
All the processes are done by hand by craftsmen, and each one is made with all their hearts. The pattern is cloisonne, and it is a very auspicious point.
| 商品名 | 西陣織ファーストシューズ |
| 価格（税込） | 19,800円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://tsu-ta-e-ru.jp/lineup/ |
| 店舗名 | tsutaeru |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://tsu-ta-e-ru.jp |
You must have “Gosyuin tyo”
This “Gosyuin tyo” is made of durable 100% polyester Nishijin-ori Kinran fabric. You can choose your favorite one from 10 patterns.
If you are going to go to the trouble of collecting “Gosyuin”, why not make your “Gosyuin tyo” your favorite one as well?
| 商品名 | 御朱印帳 |
| 価格（税込） | 2,200円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://dynafile.jp/lineup/nishijin.html#stamp |
| 店舗名 | DYNA FILE |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://dynafile.jp |
Cute and round shape Gamaguchi
The Nishijin ori is a one-rank up version of the standard Japanese accessory, the Gamaguchi. It is made of 100% silk (except gold and silver threads), so it has luster and a luxurious feeling. 3 patterns are available.
| 商品名 | ボストン型小銭入れ |
| 価格（税込） | 2,530円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp/segawa-tex/item/22716/ |
| 店舗名 | 老舗モール |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp |
Stylish Drawstring
Aburatorigami case that allows you to carry around the Nishijin brocade easily. The price is reasonable and you can choose from three colors.
| 商品名 | あぶらとり紙ケース |
| 価格（税込） | 1,650円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp/segawa-tex/item/23051/ |
| 店舗名 | 老舗モール |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp |
Smartphone case that is notebook type so you don’t have to worry about damaging the screen
A notebook type smart phone case that is easy to use. It looks very gorgeous because it is made of Nishijin brocade. It is compatible with a variety of models, so it makes a great gift.
| 商品名 | 西陣織・着物 -極- 手帳型ケース |
| 価格（税込） | 13,480円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://shopping.geocities.jp/wonder-mori/kimono-toripuru/kimono-toripuru2.html |
| 店舗名 | モーリーショップ |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://shopping.geocities.jp/wonder-mori/toripuru/pc-toripuru2.html |
Laptop and tablet cases for the nomadic worker’s must-have laptop and tablet cases.
A notebook computer and tablet case, a must for nomadic workers. You can differentiate yourself with this stylish case with Japanese modern taste. And because the colors are casual and calm, there’s nothing obnoxious about it. If you are a modern person, you must have one of these items.
| 商品名 | 西陣織ノートPC・タブレットケース |
| 価格（税込） | 5,280円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp/segawa-tex/item/22986/ |
| 店舗名 | 老舗モール |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp |
A binder that makes a difference when you have one.
This 25mm gusseted binder is designed for A4 size. It has a luxurious design and can be used for special occasions. You will surely be impressed if the documents presented by the front desk of an inn or hotel or by a sales person are in such a binder.
| 商品名 | バインダー |
| 価格（税込） | 10冊まとめて購入の場合：1冊あたり8,030円 30冊まとめて購入の場合：1冊あたり7,150円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://dynafile.jp/lineup/nishijin.html#stamp |
| 店舗名 | DYNA FILE |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://dynafile.jp |
Ancient Hakuza that I want to bring to the tea ceremony
This ancient silk cloth can be used not only for tea ceremony but also for laying a vase of flowers. It has a solemn and elegant atmosphere because it uses the Shosoin’s design of deer grass and tree oleander, which is called “Shosoin’s batik”. It is sure to be useful as a gift.
| 商品名 | 西陣織正絹 古帛紗「鹿草木夾纈」 |
| 価格（税込） | 2,420円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp/segawa-tex/item/21515/ |
| 店舗名 | 老舗モール |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp |
The world’s first table made of waterproof material by Nishijin brocade
The world’s first table made of waterproof material on Nishijin brocade. The glittering impression of the Nishijin brocade and the luxurious and chic black ground of the base are a perfect match. To avoid damaging the texture of the Nishijin brocade, the table is finished with high transparency glass, so you will be able to enjoy various expressions depending on the angle you look at it. This is a table that you will want to incorporate into your guest room, lobby, or lounge.
| 商品名 | HOSOO ラウンジテーブル スクエア |
| 価格（税込） | 550,000円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://store.hosoo.co.jp/collections/furniture/products/ラウンジテーブル-スクエア |
| 店舗名 | HOSSO |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://store.hosoo.co.jp |
Tableware to give your table a chic look
This tableware is made of Nishijin brocade, but its chic black color will give your table a subdued look. It goes well not only with Japanese tableware but also with Western tableware, so it enriches your meals and tea time.
| 商品名 | HOSOO スタイリングマット スクエア GRAPE 8201 |
| 価格（税込） | 17,600円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://store.hosoo.co.jp/collections/styling-mat/products/スタイリングマット-スクエア-grape-8201 |
| 店舗名 | HOSSO |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://store.hosoo.co.jp |
Table runner to decorate your table with elegant sparkle
This table runner is woven with sutra brocade. It can produce the glittering and elegant look typical of Nishijin brocade. You can choose your favorite colors and patterns from the sample book. 34cm width only, but lengths up to 10m can be ordered separately.
| 商品名 | 西陣織テーブルランナー |
| 価格（税込） | 13,200円 |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp/segawa-tex/item/23053/ |
| 店舗名 | 老舗モール |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.shinise.ne.jp |
The perfect knife case for carrying your special knives.
This kitchen knife case is recommended for carrying a willow blade knife. The collaboration of Japanese tradition of kitchen knives and Nishijin brocade is a perfect match. 3 colors are available, so you can choose according to your taste. It is the best gift for a chef.
| 商品名 | 西陣織 包丁ケース |
| 価格（税込） | 要問い合わせ |
| 商品ページURL | https://www.ichimonji.co.jp/blog/detail.php?blog_id=65 |
| 店舗名 | 堺一文字光秀 |
| 店舗ホームページURL | https://www.ichimonji.co.jp |
summary
In this article, we introduced the outline, 12 varieties, and recommended items of Nishijin brocade, a famous Japanese textile dyeing technique.
We hope you have learned that it is used not only for standard kimonos and obis, but also for various items such as accessories, interior decorations, and smartphone cases.
Please try to find your favorite Nishijin brocade items which will surely be appreciated as a gift.In this article, we introduced the outline, 12 varieties, and recommended items of Nishijin brocade, a famous Japanese textile dyeing technique.
We hope you have learned that it is used not only for standard kimonos and obis, but also for various items such as accessories, interior decorations, and smartphone cases.Please try to find your favorite Nishijin brocade items which will surely be appreciated as a gift.